Kibithu, Anjaw District, Arunachal Pradesh (Theory of Settlements)

Kibithu, Anjaw District, Arunachal Pradesh (Theory of Settlements)

Strong memories are on many occasions based on a single event that burns itself deep in to our minds. Rarely are they based on the whole experience of a place itself. The strongest memory I have of visiting a single place is Kibithu in Arunachal Pradesh, where my father was commanding his battalion in 2003.

Kibithu is the place where the Lohit River enters India from China.  The travel to Kibithu involves a train trip to Tinsukhia, followed by road trip to Tezu. After a halt at Tezu, Kibithu lies almost an entire day’s travel up the Lohit valley. During the  journey one passes the town of Hayuliang and the historic village of Walong. Walong is best known as the furthest Indian territory captured by the Chinese during the 1962 Indo-China War.

The Lohit Valley is perhaps the most picturesque valleys in my opinion in the north east. The one colour that pervades the environment is green. Green fields, green trees, green forests of wild banana. Only on days when there are no clouds, usually in the winter and peak summer, can you see the only other colour to figure so prominently – the blue of the sky. The colours blue and green together create a beautiful and blissful scenery.

 Kibithu is the last village on the road up the Lohit Valley. Located on a ridge and surrounded on three sides by the bend of the Lohit River, it forms almost a natural representation of the India-China border. The village itself consists of less than 60 people, half of whom travel to Walong or Hayuliang for work. The local school teaches only till 4th standard ; further education has to be sought after at Walong. The village is heavily dependent on the army battalion stationed there. In fact the computer centre at the school consists completely of unused computers given by the army.

While being remote Kibithu still has a thrill ride. The foot suspension bridge (FSB) across the river is a ride not for the faint of heart. There are gaps between the planks through which one can see the raging river below. The ropes holding up the bridge are at least a few decades old and their tattered look does nothing to reinforce your faith in them. On an average day the winds blowing through the valley swing the bridge by at least a metre or two. On an especially windy day the wind swing the bridge so much that one might as well walk on a wall. I never made it across, as the thought of the possibility of falling into the water below overpowered any brave misconceptions I had of crossing it.

Ahead of Kibithu lie the posts of Wacha and Dichu. Dichu lies across the FSB while Wacha is a two to three hour light trek away. Wacha is the furthest one can go without reaching China. In fact there is a board written in Chinese at Wacha alerting any stray wanderers from the other side that they are entering Indian territory and are liable to get shot at.

The Lohit Valley is one of the few remaining untouched places in India. While rapid development is happening in the valley, it is imperative that the people there take an active interest in preserving the rich natural heritage they have been blessed with. I hope that one day I can return to the Lohit Valley and refresh the memories that have been burned in my mind and hopefully done the same to others who have visited it.